In the beginning…
The term "Elemi" is derived from the Arabic "Al-Lamy," meaning "above," and refers to a type of resin secreted by various trees, including Canarium luzonicum, which is native to the Philippines. Over the centuries, elemi has played an important role in various cultures. It was used in ancient Egypt in the mummification process, for example, where it served to protect bodies after death.
During the Middle Ages, elemi was introduced to Europe, where it was used as a medicine to treat a variety of ailments. However, it was its use in perfumery that truly made this resin famous. In luxury perfumery, elemi is known for its olfactory complexity and its ability to blend harmoniously with other ingredients.
Elemi cultivation
Elemi comes primarily from the Philippines , where the Canarium luzonicum tree, commonly known as the Elemi tree, grows abundantly. The trees grow wild in tropical rainforests, and Elemi is harvested during the rainy season when the trees are at their peak resin production.
Elemi cultivation occurs primarily in the wild, without direct human intervention. However, once the resin begins to flow from the tree, it is harvested by hand by local workers, a task that requires great care and attention to avoid damaging the tree. The resin is then cleaned and dried in the sun before being packaged for export.
What do you know about elemi in perfumery?
Once the elemi plant is harvested, it undergoes a distillation process to extract the essential oil. It is this essential oil, therefore the raw material, that is used in perfumery. Distillation is a complex process that requires precise temperature and pressure to preserve the quality of the oil. The oil is then packaged in small bottles and sold to perfumeries around the world.
Elemi belongs to the resin family in perfumery. Resins are known for their rich and complex scent, and elemi is no exception. Resins are often used as base notes in perfumes to add weight and depth to the overall fragrance.
Elemi has a complex fragrance, often described as a blend of lemon , honey , and smoke . Specifically, there are notes of mandarin water, floral, resinous, lemongrass, citron, and zesty. Also, pink pepper and herbal.
Due to its complexity, elemi blends well with a variety of other ingredients. It can be paired with citrus fruits to accentuate its zesty freshness, or with woody notes to accentuate its balsamic depth. It also pairs well with spices like cinnamon and clove to add a spicy dimension to a fragrance. Because of its rich depth, elemi is often used as a base note in perfumes to give longevity and weight to the overall scent.
Some legendary elemi fragrances…
• L'Eau Sauvage Parfum 2017 is a modern reinterpretation of the Dior classic , Eau Sauvage, which was first launched in 1966. This 2017 edition, created by perfumer François Demachy, is a woody oriental fragrance for men that adds a touch of sophistication to the original formula. This men's eau de parfum opens with top notes of bergamot, a hint of citrus that adds an initial freshness. The heart notes are dominated by elemi, an exotic resin with citrusy and slightly spicy undertones that add an interesting complexity to the composition. Finally, the base notes of the fragrance feature a deep, earthy vetiver, along with rich, balsamic labdanum, giving L'Eau Sauvage Parfum 2017 exceptional depth and longevity.
• Eau des Merveilles is an iconic fragrance from the luxury house of Hermès . Launched in 2004 and created by perfumers Ralf Schwieger and Nathalie Feisthauer, this women's fragrance is known for its innovative character and apparent lack of traditional floral notes. Eau des Merveilles begins with fresh, sparkling top notes of orange, lemon, and elemi resin, which are quickly complemented by woody elements of oak and cedar. Ambergris lends a salty, mineral sensuality, adding unexpected depth and complexity to the fragrance. Pepper and vetiver add a spicy, earthy warmth.
Elemi X Good Perfumer
• Eau de parfum 003 ! Yuzu, violet leaves, vetiver for a woody cologne… Our revisited version of Cologne. A sparkling and zesty opening with yuzu, the Japanese cousin of lemon! Tones of powdery white flowers bring softness and elegance to this playful fragrance. Touches of elemi enchant and facet the woody and musky inflections in the base. A little mischievous but always fresh.
• Eau de parfum 401 ! Cedar, candied plum, vanilla… A perfumed liqueur with fruity and vanilla accents. A fresh and tangy trio of cypress, elemi and bergamot to start. Then the plum reveals sweet and captivating tones of candied fruit, balanced by the elegance of cedarwood. Vanilla gives this creation its strong character by bringing roundness and sensuality.
