It's a fragrance full of history that we're going to tell you about today. If I tell you about inspiration and impossible love, what do you think about? (Yes, yes, we are talking about a perfume!) It is Guerlain's Mitsouko that interests us today. It's above all a beautiful love story... And not the least important! Jacques Guerlain, perfumer, wanted to honor the book "La Bataille" written by Claude Farrère, a close friend of the creator.
As a revisited Roméo et Juliette, the book tells the story of the impossible love between the heroine Mitsouko, wife of a Japanese admiral, and a British officer during the Russo-Japanese war of 1905. It is therefore not surprising that "Mitsouko" means mystery in French!
This perfume marked its time by the audacity of its accords, and its spirit overflowing with freedom, just like the crazy love that Mitsouko maintained.
It is necessary to say that this perfume adapted perfectly well to the situation of the time! Indeed, it is in 1919 that the perfume was revealed to the general public. In post-war period, we were in this "boyish" phase where the women emancipated themselves and dreamed of audacity. They were no longer afraid to cut their hair, or even to wear pants. This perfume is the reflection of this claimed and embodied freedom.
This beautiful message inspired Rita Mitsouko, whose artist's name echoes this perfume.
In your opinion, which olfactory notes of this fragrance retranscribe these notions of freedom and joy of life? Composed of 19 ingredients, this perfume is an invitation to party, just like Mitsouko's life.
Shades of peach, bergamot, lilac, jasmine and rose intertwine to form a floral harmony. The delicacy of the spices awakens this chypre. Guerlain is still keen to keep the secret elements (yes, mystery always attracts!) In short, it is a true fruity and addictive explosion.
Oak moss and patchouli, so characteristic, deliver all the sensuality of this woody base. Supported by ambergris and vetiver, it then reveals a subtle intensity. The secret of its success and longevity is undoubtedly due to its perfect balance.
But wait! Maybe some people don't know exactly what a chypre is anyway? Don't worry, we'll enlighten you! It is an olfactory family that offers light and dark tones. Between the luminosity of bergamot and the dark intensity of undergrowth notes, these fragrances are like magnets. Bergamot, oak moss, cistus labdanum and patchouli are the four essential raw materials for the elaboration of a chypre. They are the ones that give the trail its special and elegant character. We wanted to express our love for oak moss in this article. This beautiful material with multiple facets, but so complicated to use because of its mini dosage allowed in perfumery.
It reveals itself from the very first moments in full power. The moss takes us with it in the olfactory depths. One can completely imagine oneself in the heart of a dark forest but also see the immensity of a beach covered with seaweed. It is this olfactory complexity that makes it so attractive. It is warm but cold, raw but sophisticated. It brings a real richness to the creations and a lot of hold. It is an excellent fixative and helps to retain notes that are a little too volatile.
It is perhaps thanks to this foam that Mitsouko remains today one of the iconic perfumes in the history of modern perfumery, one hundred years after its appearance. If this avant-garde archetype is still unknown to you, we bet you are longing to discover it.