Red berries, highly appreciated fragrances
Red berries occupy a special place in the world of perfumes. They are appreciated for their sweet, fresh and often slightly acidic scent, which evokes youth, energy and a certain sophistication. Used in both women's and men's fragrances, red fruits add a unique and often irresistible dimension to a perfume blend.
There are many reasons for the popularity of red fruits in perfumery. Firstly, their scent is universally loved, offering a fruity, invigorating top note that instantly attracts attention. Secondly, they possess exceptional versatility, blending harmoniously with a multitude of other scents, whether floral, woody, musky or oriental. Finally, red fruit scents often evoke pleasant memories and emotions - summer afternoons spent picking berries by a country lane, enjoying a homemade strawberry tart or the simple pleasure of a bowl of juicy cherries. These positive associations make berries a popular choice for perfumers seeking to create scents that tell a story, evoke emotions and capture the imagination.
In the beginning…
The history of berries in perfumery is as rich and complex as perfumes themselves. For centuries, perfume designers have harnessed the power of red fruit to add a touch of sweetness, freshness and originality to their creations.
The first traces of the use of red berries in perfumery date back to antiquity. The Egyptians, recognized as the pioneers of perfumery, used various plants and fruits, including red berries, to create perfumes and ointments. In the Middle Ages, strawberries and raspberries were commonly used in eau de toilette and lotions. However, the use of fruit in perfumes was limited at the time, due to the difficulty of extracting their essences without altering their freshness and sweetness.
Over the centuries, as extraction techniques evolved, the use of red fruits in perfumery became increasingly common. In the 19th century, innovation in extraction methods led to purer, more stable red fruit essences, paving the way for their increased use in perfumes. In the early 20th century, fruity fragrances, with a predominance of red fruit notes, became popular and began to shape perfumery trends.
Today, the use of red fruits in perfumery is more widespread than ever. These fruits are at the heart of many contemporary creations, from the most luxurious perfumes to the most accessible fragrances. The use of red fruits has also diversified, moving from simple top notes to more complex compositions where they can act as heart or base notes. The appeal of red fruits remains strong, due to their ability to evoke feelings of joy, carefreeness and youth.
What types of red berries are used in perfumery?
Each red fruit has its own olfactory personality, bringing unique notes to perfumes. Perfumers use them to compose seductive accords that tell stories and evoke emotions.
The strawberry is perhaps one of the most emblematic red fruits used in perfumery. It offers a soft, sweet and slightly tart note that evokes freshness and cheerfulness. This red berry is commonly used in fruity and gourmand fragrances, bringing a sensation of lightness and youthfulness. Fragrances like Cacharel's "Amor Amor" or Dior's Miss Dior Chérie exploit the scent of strawberries wonderfully.
Raspberries add a sweet-tart note with a slightly floral undertone. They are often used to add a touch of sophistication to a fragrance. Their rich nuances make them an excellent choice for complex, multi-layered fragrances: Le 203 by Bon Parfumeur and Nina by Nina Ricci are examples of fragrances that use raspberry notes.
Cherries are sweet, juicy and slightly bitter. They are often associated with feelings of seduction and temptation. They are generally used in oriental or gourmand fragrances to add a certain opulence. Guerlain's La petite robe noir is an excellent example of a fragrance that highlights the cherry note.
Redcurrants add a refreshingly acidic note, with a hint of sweetness. They are commonly used in summer fragrances for their lightness and freshness. Le 202 by Bon Parfumeur or English Oak & Redcurrant by Jo Malone London use redcurrants for an invigorating sensation. Moreover, La vie est belle Eau de Parfum by Lancôme has redcurrants in the heart note.
Blackberries bring a rich, almost wine-like note that can add depth to a fragrance. Their sweet sweetness combined with a slight acidity makes them an interesting choice for fruity and oriental fragrances. "Mûre et Musc Extrême" by L'Artisan Parfumeur is an example of a perfume that uses blackberry.
How to extract the scents of red fruits?
Extracting scents from red berries presents several challenges. Firstly, these fruits contain large quantities of water, which can make extraction of fragrance oils difficult and inefficient. Secondly, their aromatic components are often volatile and can be easily lost or altered during the extraction process of fragrance oil. Finally, faithfully reproducing the natural scent of red fruits is a challenge in itself, as their complex, nuanced fragrance can be difficult to capture in a single essence. Perfumers therefore recreate the scent of red fruit using synthetic molecules.
Why are berries popular in perfumery?
Red berries have much to offer the art of perfumery. Not only do they provide distinct, pleasing fragrances, they also play a crucial role in creating attractive, memorable scents.
Red fruit fragrances are appreciated for their freshness, sweetness and universality. They evoke joy, innocence and seduction, yet are versatile enough to be worn in any season and on any occasion. What's more, berries are associated with pleasant memories, such as childhood or summer walks, making berry fragrances nostalgic and comfortable for many.
The psychological impact of red fruit scents is undeniable. Research has shown that fruity scents can improve mood, reduce stress and stimulate positive memories. What's more, fruity fragrances, especially those with red fruit notes, are often perceived as younger and more energetic. They can therefore help create a more positive, youthful self-image.
Red fruits have a great ability to blend harmoniously with a variety of other scents. For example, they can add sweetness and depth to floral scents, a juicy, vibrant note to oriental scents, and an invigorating freshness to woody scents. In short, they add a unique dimension to a fragrance, balancing other notes and creating olfactory harmony.