Jasmine Sambac Perfume

In the beginning…

Sambac jasmine, whose botanical name is Jasminum sambac , is an iconic flower in perfumery. Its use dates back to ancient times, when this exotic flower, native to South Asia—often India—was already appreciated for its fruity, sunny, and sensual fragrance. Its name " Sambac " comes from the Arabic word " sambac ," which means " jasmine flower ."

The earliest records of its use date back to ancient India, where Jasmine Sambac was revered for its fragrant properties. Indian women incorporated it into their beauty and wellness rituals, and it was also used in religious ceremonies and weddings.

Later, during the expansion of trade routes between India and the Middle East, Jasmine Sambac was introduced to the Arabian Peninsula region, becoming an integral part of Arab culture. Middle Eastern perfumers quickly recognized the potential of this precious flower and began using it to create complex, sunny floral fragrances.

The craze for Jasmine Sambac then spread to Egypt, Persia, and finally to Europe during the medieval period, via the Arab conquests. Its arrival in Europe marked a significant turning point in the history of Western perfumery. Jasmine Sambac became a key component of luxury perfumes, prized for its fruity, creamy, and floral effects.

Today, Jasmine Sambac continues to be a beloved flower in the world of perfumery, giving fragrances fruity, almost candied, floral, sunny, and creamy facets. This flower is present in many world-famous perfumes and is often combined with other white flowers such as tuberose, ylang-ylang, etc.

The cultivation of Jasmine Sambac

Sambac jasmine thrives primarily in regions such as India, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, Nepal, and Pakistan, although the most famous is Indian Sambac jasmine. These regions offer a warm and humid climate, conducive to its growth. In India, Sambac jasmine is particularly famous; its cultural significance has earned it the title " queen of flowers ." Regions such as Madurai, Mysore, and Tamil Nadu are renowned for producing high-quality Sambac jasmine.

The cultivation of Jasmine Sambac has also spread to other Southeast Asian countries, where it is cherished for its diverse uses, ranging from perfumery to hair ornamentation and traditional floral necklaces.

Due to its growing popularity, Jasmine Sambac production has been introduced to other parts of the world, including Africa, South America and parts of the Middle East.

Growing Sambac jasmine requires careful attention and expertise; this flower is demanding and requires specific conditions to fully flourish. Sambac jasmine prefers a tropical or subtropical climate with warm temperatures and high humidity. It thrives in well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Sambac jasmine is usually propagated by cuttings or grafting. Sambac jasmine requires regular attention, including watering, fertilizing, and pruning to promote healthy growth. Harvesting Sambac jasmine flowers is delicate and must be done early in the morning when the flowers reach their peak of fragrance and freshness. They are handpicked to preserve their quality.

What do you know about Jasmine Sambac in perfumery?

Transforming Jasmine Sambac into a fragrance ingredient requires a meticulous process to preserve the integrity of its delicate scent. Here are the key steps in the transformation and processing of Jasmine Sambac in perfumery:

• Extraction: The traditional method of extracting the fragrance of Jasmine Sambac is enfleurage. The fresh flowers are placed on plates covered with a thin layer of fat (formerly animal fat, today vegetable fats, such as coconut butter, are used). The odorous molecules diffuse into the fat over time, impregnating it with the captivating fragrance of Jasmine Sambac. A concrete is then obtained, which is washed with alcohol to obtain an absolute.

• Absolute: Another common extraction method is solvent extraction, which produces jasmine absolute. This process requires volatile solvents to extract the scent molecules from the flowers, creating a highly concentrated jasmine absolute. This is the most common extraction.

• Co-distillation: Jasmine Sambac can exceptionally be co-distilled with other natural ingredients, such as essential oils, to create unique fragrance accords. This process is very rare and allows for the creation of new ingredients.

• Maceration: A less common but sometimes used method is to macerate the Jasmine Sambac flowers in a vegetable oil base to obtain a fragrant essence.

The extraction process is crucial to capturing the true fragrance of Jasmine Sambac and creating quality fragrance ingredients.

The olfactory profile of Sambac jasmine is complex. Its scent notes are recognized as fruity, green, and sunny. However, Sambac jasmine also exhibits exotic, animal, and slightly spicy facets.

The floral sweetness and sensuality of Jasmine Sambac make this white flower an interesting choice for obtaining very floral and sunny fragrances.

Sambac jasmine is olfactorily distinguished from Grandiflorum jasmine by its green, fruity, and sunny facets. Indeed, Grandiflorum jasmine has a more reinforced animal facet and its fruity facets are less pronounced than those of Sambac jasmine.

Sambac jasmine is more widely used than Grandiflorum jasmine because it is easier to grow and more affordable.

Famous perfumes with Jasmine Sambac

Jasmine sambac has become widespread and is used in many applications: eau de toilette, eau de parfum, cosmetic products, care products, home fragrances, etc. It is found in many perfumes that have become iconic:

• I adore by Dior: Launched in 1999, J'adore is an iconic Dior fragrance, featuring Jasmine Sambac combined with notes of rose, magnolia, and ylang-ylang to create an elegant fruity floral bouquet. This fragrance has been released as a body cream, soap, scrub, and more.

• Gucci Bloom by Gucci: Launched in 2017, Gucci Bloom is a modern feminine fragrance that features an abundance of Jasmine Sambac, enhanced by a note of tuberose, creating a floral composition that reflects its name.

• Alien by Thierry Mugler : The Alien fragrance, launched in 2005, blends Jasmine Sambac with woody and amber notes to create an inimitable olfactory signature. At Bon Parfumeur, several fragrances in the collection are composed around Jasmine Sambac. This is particularly the case for 103, which offers a solar accord of jasmine, tiare flower and hibiscus.

• Bon Parfumeur 002 Eau de Parfum modernizes cologne with its jasmine-amber accord that brings this amber floral facet. A zesty, fresh top note faithful to classic cologne. Violet leaf modernizes it and brings this green and slightly fruity facet. A floral heart where the delicacy of lily of the valley and peony aerates the solar jasmine. The musky and white amber notes are like a soft bed for the flowers.

• In the 202 , jasmine is linked to fruity notes and brings a floral facet to this fresh fruit cocktail. A juicy top note with grapefruit, melon and lemon. A layering of fruit with redcurrant in the heart. Floral notes that have a diluting effect on the fruit and make it transparent. A subtly woody base. Caramel coats the fragrance and makes it a little gourmand and playful.

Other varieties of jasmine are also used by perfumers such as jasmine grandiflorum .